First half: Enjoy the Continuously Changing Scenes of the Forest, Walk Over the Pass, and a Surprise Awaits.
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Walking Through the Woods Where Rice Used to Grow
Meeting up at Ryotsu Harbor, the ride up to the trailhead takes about 40 minutes in a jumbo taxi. We drove north along Uchikaifu shores and then on a narrow forest road. There were six hikers on our tour, and the Eco Tour Guides were Hiromitsu Ono and Ryosuke Okazaki.
The primeval forests have been protected during the gold mine years. The property was transferred to Niigata University in 1951. "I had heard 5 to 6 years ago that there were Japanese cedars that looked like the ones on Oku Island, but I was blown away the first time I actually saw it," said Mr. Ono. He continued, "Sado's weather, such as the mist-like rain and the seasonal winds, helped to protect the giant Japanese cedars of the old growth forest." Niigata University has recently generously agreed to open the forests to visitors with the following conditions: limit the number of visitors; a guide to be present with the visitors; and collection of Environmental Conservation Fee.
After carefully doing stretches at the trailhead, we formed a single line and entered the forest. Having heard that mint plant keeps small bugs called mematoi that fly around your face away, I'm armed with a few sprigs of mint on my hat. Konara oak (Quercus serrata) changes to mizunara oak (Quercus crispula) as we climed to higher elevation. Both species are known as trees that make acorns. "This forest is a second-growth forest that was planted after the evergreen oaks were logged," explained Mr. Okazaki who is very knowledgeable about all things related to plants. Where there used to be rice fields is now wooded with deciduous trees such as Japanese wingnut (Pterocarya rhoifolia) and mizunara, forming what is called keihanrin (woods along mountain stream) in Japanese. The undergrowth is dominated by mamushi-gusa (Arisaema serratum) and it's so thick that it feels like we're walking through a jungle. Our trek continued as my thoughts wandered to the times when people were out here farming the land in the middle of the forest.
We moved through the woods by a stream. It's like a jungle. The forest and the undergrowth create an air of fantasy.
Eco Tour Guide Hiromitsu Ono. "Giant trees of mizunara as well as Japanese horse chestnut (Aesculus turbinata) and ho-noki (Magnolia hypoleuca) are also wonderful.
We got out of the jumbo taxi at the trailhead and hike up the mountain. Pick up is seven hours later.
Even if you work out regularly, it's a good idea to stretch since you'll be using a different set of muscles.
A sign of illegal digging. Nature belongs to no one and everyone. Obey the rules and be mindful of etiquette on nature walks.
The Last Hurdle: To Seki Pass
Jizo (stone statue of the guardian deity of travelers) stands at the fork of Okura and Seki. We headed towards Seki Pass.
The climax of Seki Pass. It's not an easy climb, but keep thinking about the old growth forest ahead, and go for it!
About 30 minutes into the walk, we saw a huge maple tree with a large canopy. We were welcomed by Mukae-no sanbon sugi (Three Greeting Cedars), three cedar trees growing together. It seems to signal the beginning of the old growth forest.
After about one hour from the trailhead, we came to a fork where the road splits into Seki Pass and Ogura Pass. We'll be going over the Seki Pass, and coming back by the way of Ogura Pass. Seki Pass used to be a community road, but it's not an easy climb. We climbed up the path that's barely marked. I was thankful to see strategically placed rope from time to time. There was a watering hole along the way where you'll find fresh spring water to refresh yourself. We saw a variety of flowers and interesting plants such as goma-gi (Viburnus sieboldii) a tree that smells like sesame (goma) and tochiba-ninjin (Panax japonicus) a perennial whose leaves look like hose chestnut leaves. "The plants know their place." I sensed Nature's greatness in Mr. Okazaki's words.
After climbing the steep hill with the aid of a rope, we came upon a jizo statue. We've finally made it to the peak. With all my might, I pulled myself up onto the peak. That very moment my view opened up to a mountain range and the expansive ocean beyond it. A moment of ultimate freedom and space! We slowly climbed down the embankment, stood on the side of the forest path, and took a deep breath as we faced toward the ocean. We only have a little ways to go to the old growth forest.