Second half: Forgetting the Time in the Primeval Forest and A Visit to the Mysterious Swamp and the Vast Grassland on the Way Back
After taking in the grand view of the ocean, the old growth forest is just a short climb up the open forest path. I wondered about the forest that is ahead and what new things will we see on the way back. I was full of anticipation.
Feeling the Forest Where Giant Trees Still Grow
Walking up the well-maintained forest road with the mountains and the ocean to my left, we were confronted with Nioh-sugi, an enormous cedar. It is estimated to be 500 to 600 years old and measures 7 meters in girth. Still ahead, we see the sign that says "This way to Daioh-sugi." The sign is maintained by Niigata University, and is very interesting looking. After passing through O-sama-no sho-kei (King's Lane), we have finally entered the old growth forest.
Sado's old growth forest started to get attention after photographer Takashi Amano took pictures of the forest. Mr. Amano's photos of Sado's old growth forest are known for being showcased at the dinner party of Lake Toya Summit in the summer of 2008. We did not visiting the exact same location on our hike, but giant trees of similar vintage awaited us. We reached the main attraction of this hike, Daioh sugi (Maharaja cedar.) We all gave a cheer to the giant tree that stands amidst a number of smaller trees. The smaller trees looked as though they are guarding their boss. We sat down to eat lunch by the giant tree, though we had to stay about one meter away of the tree as not to harm its roots. Feeling the air of the forest, I felt healed and comforted as I lunched with the ancient trees.
Each giant tree has a history. Some grow their limbs sideways, some have branches that grow downwards like the tusk of a mammoth, and some have holes in their trunks. They all tell a story about the time and the environment in which they grew. We looked at each tree carefully and touched them. I was also moved to see these giants cohabitating with other plants such as mistletoes and moss.
An artful sign pointing to Daioh-sugi. It's maintained by Niigata University.
Each giant tree is a work of art by Nature.
Lunch by Daioh-sugi. The area around the tree is roped off to protect its root structure.
Complex shapes of the giant trees created by harsh seasonal winds and snow. They are powerful enough to draw you right in.
End of the Trek: Mysterious Swamp and a Vast Field
Seeing Japan Sea and Ryotsu Harbor from Okura Shiraba. It's a fantastic feeling.
Kaminotaira Swamp is a place that was cherished by the people that used to live in this area.
I was impressed with the mystery and greatness of Nature as I saw the cedars and mistletoe cohabitating.
We headed back as we bid adieu to the great trees. This time we were blessed with the mild descent of Okura. On the way down, we made another short climb up to Okura Shiraba. There was a watering hole on the way. We quenched our thirst with fresh spring water (tested to be potable) and headed toward Shiraba with our bottles filled with the spring water. Okura Shiraba is a vast grassy field with a panoramic view of Japan Sea and Ryotsu Harbor. Depending on the season, you might be greeted by a grazing cow or two. "I wanted to treat the hikers with the view," smiled Mr. Ono. It was our reward for the hard climb.
The last point of interest before coming to the fork toward Seki was Kaminotaira Swamp. This seemed to be one of Mr. Ono's favorite spots. "It's nice when it's sunny, but the fairytale-like atmosphere when it's overcast is amazing, too." The floating island is one that is as impressive as O-sado's Floating Island of Otowa Lake.
From the point where Seki Pass and Okura Pass meet, we traced the same route back to the trailhead. We were all tired, but I knew that all the participants went back excited and elated to have found a new face of Sado.