Rent a Bike and Ride Around Sado's Asukaji
Fall colors go well with the temples found in the old town of Mano in Kuninaka Plains. This area is perfect for a bike ride as you reminisce about the old historical figures. With a cycling map in hand, you're ready to go. Don't miss the beautiful pastoral scenes with Mount Kinpoku in the background and the wonderful forest paths.
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Start at the Central Branch of Sado Tourism Association where you can pick up a cycling map and a rental bike. "Since the Old Town of Mano has a lot of historical sites, I recommend the 'Mano-Goryo/Asukaji Course' map. We've also started a free rental of audio guides this year, so please take advantage of it," says Keiko Goto of the Central Branch.
Starting from the Area Where Emperor Juntoku Lived and Died
Moving towards Ogi from the Tourism Association's office, take a left at the intersection of Mano-Goryo entrance. If you have time, you can take a right here and visit Koiga-ura where Emperor Juntoku landed on the island, and then trace back to the intersection. Mano Park is well known for cherry blossoms, but the park is beautiful in the fall, too. Mano Villa located adjacent to the park was the resident of Emperor Juntoku. The villa was originally called Shinriji Temple, a branch temple of Kokubunji Temple, but during the anti-Biddhist movement in Meiji era, the temple came to be known as Mano Villa. A slab of stone carved with Emperor Juntoku's waka (31-syllable Japanese sonnet) graces the entrance of the villa.
At Sado Rekishi Densetsukan (Sado History and Legend Museum) located next to the villa, you can read up on Emperor Juntoku, Nichiren (a Buddhist monk who lived during the Kamakura period (1185-1333), credited for founding Nichiren Buddhism,) and Zeami (actor and playwright of Noh in the 14th century,) and see life-size robots of these noted historical characters. Works by the Living National Treasure Shodo Sasaki, who is known for wax mold casting, are a must see. You can also meet Sgt. Charles Jenkins at the gift shop. Charles Jenkins is something of a celebrity figure in Japan, who is known for having defected to North Korea while serving in the US Army, then marrying a Japanese woman who had been kidnapped by the North Korean Government. After his wife was found and relocated to Japan, Jenkins turned himself in to US Army at Zama Army Base and moved to Sado after serving his sentence for desertion.
From the History and Traditional Museum, climb up the mountain road about one kilometer to Mano Goryo, Emperor Juntoku's cremation mound. On the way, you'll find the birthplace of Mano Village as well as a 750-year old plum tree that Emperor Juntoku planted himself named Ishi-daki-ume (Stone-holding Plum,) so take your time climbing. Ouma-ishi (horse stone), Ofune-ishi (boat stone), and Chin-ishi (dog stone) all connected to the lore of Emperor Juntoku are all located near Mano Goryo, too.
A stone carved with the history of Old Town of Mano. Have a good look at the view of Mano Harbor and take a little break.
The beautiful flowers of buckwheat on the way from Mano Goryo to Kuninaka Plains.
You can rent power-assisted bicycles. Choose according to your needs.
The audio guide tells you about various tourist sights.
A stone monument at the entrance of Mano Villa that is carved with Emperor Juntoku's waka. The sonnet was written before the Battle of Jokyu in 1221.
Life-size robot of Zeami introduces the various historical persons during the Sado Zenhakkei presentation at the theater.
Through the Woods and Passed the Pastures, Head for Asukaji
Noh stage at Daizen Shrine, rebuilt towards the end of Edo era is the oldest Noh stage on Sado.
Being on the bicycle allows you to notice the little things along the road such as flowers blooming and colors on the trees.
Literary critic Katsuichiro Kamei commented that this reminded him of Asukaji in Yamato (Nara) when he visited this area in 1950. The monument sits on one of the best spots for sightseeing.
Enjoy an informative conversation with the owner of Kurikuriya, Tazuko Nitta.
Ride along the Chubu Nature Walkway from Mano Goryo for about 4 kilometer to Asukaji. You can see the approach of autumn in the berries and the colors of the leaves along the way. Buckwheat blossoms and fall colors in the private gardens are delightful sights, too.
Once you reach Kuninaka Plains, head towards the site of Sado Kokubunji that was built during Nara era. The current Kokubunji located close by was built in early Edo era, and there you'll find the sitting statue of Yakushi-nyorai (Medicine Buddha, Bhaisajyaguru in Sanskrit.) About one kilometer further from there, you'll reach Abutsubo Myosenji Temple among a grove of Japanese red pine. The five-story pagoda there is the only one in Niigata Prefecture. November is the best time to see mulberries in the temple grounds.
Before heading back, be sure to check out Sado Asuka monument found on top of a hill overlooking Kuninaka Plains, Sesonji Temple with its close connections to Nichiren, and Daizen Shrine where a thatched roofed Noh stage is found. A perfect snack after a nice workout is oyaki (pancake-like outer skin stuffed with sweet azuki paste and other delicious sweet stuff) at Kurikuriya located by Mano Shincho bus station. A few bites of these delectable sweets made by Tazuko Nitta will re-energize your body and spirits.
The Mano Goryo/Asukaji Course is one that should be enjoyed at a leisurely pace, about half a day to complete. Keiko Goto of the Central Branch told us, "If you can go a long distance, I would recommend Chokokuji Temple where the seasonal flowers are quite beautiful. Taking a walk around the temple with a priest of the temple is really wonderful." There are three courses described on the cycling map. You can choose the one that most fits your desires.
Special maccha (powered green tea) oyaki is \100; black sesame seed oyaki is filled with chocolate filling and is 90 yen, both including tax.
Go a bit further and visit Keikuji Temple. The grounds that slowly reveals itself as you climb the stairs is mysterious.
DATA
Sado Rekishi Densetsukan (Sado History and Legend Museum)
- 655 Mano, Sado-shi (Tel: 0259-55-2525)
- Hours: 8:00 to 17:30 (8:30 to 17:00 from December to March)
- Open daily
- Entrance charge: Adult 700 yen; Child 6 to 12 400 yen
Kurikuriya
- 1700-4 Yoshioka, Sado-shi (Tel: 0259-55-2670)
- Hours: 9:00 to about 17:00
- Open mostly daily