Introduction to the Local Brand "Sado Kanburi," for a Satisfying Taste Experience
Why does Kanburi caught on Sado taste so good? We asked Takashi Katano, Section Chief of Agricultural, Forestry and Fisheries Development and Promotion Division of Niigata Prefecture's Sado Regional Development and Promotion Bureau about why Kanburi caught on Sado is so good, and about the Prefecture-wide "Sado's No.1 Kanburi" promotion.
"Buri Okoshi" (thunder and lightening during winter yellowtail season), brings yellowtails during their southward swim to Ryotsu Harbor.
First, Mr. Katano told us about winter yellowtail's migration route to Ryotu Harbor. "Yellowtails spawn in the area around the East China Sea to southwestern Japan Sea. When the fish are about three years, they start their great migration. They go north through the Japan Sea, feasting around Hokkaido from July to October, then begin their way down south when the water temperature begins to dip in November. When the weather turns bad and thunder and lightening called "Buri Okoshi" sound, the yellowtail avoid the bad weather and come into Ryotu Harbor."
Currently, yellowtail is fished using large-scale fixed pound nets in five areas around Sado: Washizaki, Kurohime, Waki, Shirose, and O-gawa. As for the history of Kanburi fishing, Mr. Katano explained as follows. "It was begun by a fishing company based in Osaka around 1911. In 1921 Ecchu-style fixed pound nets were cast in Shirose, and local fishing companies began fishing operations in 1936. From around 1945 to 1955 into the sixties were bumper catch years. So plentiful was the catch that many roads in the Washizaki area are called 'Buri Roads' as they were made with the profits from fishing. The catch peaked in 2004 at 690 tons and has been declining ever since. We had a very bad year last year, but the supply seems good this year. It's now up to the fish; whether they will come into Ryotsu Harbor or not." Mr. Katano seemed hopeful for a good year of fishing.
"We had a good beginning in November, and we're looking for a good season towards the end of the year and New Years," says Takashi Katano, looking hopeful.
"Sado No.1 Kanburi" weighing 12 kilograms with perfect roundness, color, and shine.
An Obsession with "Sado No. 1 Kanburi"!
Japanese have different names for yellowtail in various stages of growth. Yellowtail is called "Fukuragi" or "Inada" up to about a year when they reach about 1 kg. They grow to about 3 kg after two years, and are called "Warasa" during those years. Yellowtail that is over 3 kg is called "Buri." They grow to about 5 kg by the time they are three years old, and reach about 10 kg when they're about 3-1/2 years. As a second well-known branded product after Koshihikari rice, Niigata Prefecture has set up additional standards for "Sado No.1 Kanburi", a special class among winter yellowtail, and began their PR campaign in 2006.
"The first catch of the season happens here in Sado. The name means the best and also the first of the season," said Mr. Katano. In order to be labeled "Sado No.1 Buri," "the fish must weigh at least 10kg, and have to meet a standard for fat content. Fish oil is what gives Kanburi its unique wonderful flavor." In order to maintain it in the freshest and most delicious condition, certain processing standards must also be met after the fish is caught. "As soon as the fish is out of the water, we flush out the blood, and the fish is put on ice made of deep sea water. By cooling the flesh to its core, the taste of the fish is preserved. When the fish is shipped, the fish is accompanied by a guarantee that states who caught the fish when and where. Yellowtail that is between 3kg and 10kg are shipped with 'Kanburi' labels."
"Sado No.1 Buri" is sold at 12 outlets island-wide, and at 8 brokerage houses in Niigata City. They can be had at sushi shops, kappo (Japanese cuisine) restaurants, inns, and at various events.
Using infrared light, the adipometer measures the fat content of yellowtail. To carry the label of "Sado No.1 Kanburi," it must contain minimum of 15% fat.
The poster tries to raise the awareness and recognition of Kanburi as a Niigata Brand.
The banner is displayed at restaurants and shops that carry Kanburi.